The "Volcano Mulch" Epidemic: Why 90% of Jacksonville Homes Are Mulched Incorrectly and How to Fix It

You see it everywhere in Jacksonville, from the historic homes in Riverside to the new builds in Nocatee. A perfect, cone-shaped mountain of mulch piled high against the trunk of a Crepe Myrtle or a Live Oak.

It’s called "volcano mulching," and it’s a slow-motion death sentence for your trees.

It’s the single most common mistake in landscaping, practiced by countless "mow, blow, and go" crews who value speed over science. It looks tidy for a moment, but it’s an epidemic that is costing Jacksonville homeowners thousands in replacing dead, diseased, and suffocated trees.

To understand why, we have to ignore what "looks nice" and go back to first principles: How does a tree actually work?

The 'Volcano Mulch' (left) is a death sentence for your trees. The correct 'Mulch Donut' (right) keeps them healthy and thriving in Jacksonville.

Part 1: The First Principle – A Tree's Trunk is Not a Root

This seems obvious, but it’s the entire problem. A tree is made of two distinct parts that are designed for two different environments:

• The Trunk (Trunk Bark): This part evolved to live in the air. Its bark is its "skin," designed to protect the tree from sun, wind, and insects. It needs to be dry.

• The Roots (Root Bark): This part evolved to live in the soil. Its "skin" is designed to absorb water and nutrients and to be in a constantly moist environment.

Where these two parts meet is the most critical—and most misunderstood—part of the tree: the Root Flare (also called the "root collar").

The root flare is the area at the base of the trunk where the tree begins to "flare out" to become the root system. This flare must be exposed to the air. It is the tree's "waistline," and it needs to breathe.

What Happens When You Build a "Volcano"?

When you pile 6-12 inches of mulch up against the trunk, you are burying the root flare. You are forcing the tree's trunk to live in a dark, wet, soil-like environment it was never designed for.

This leads to three catastrophic failures:

1. It Causes Trunk Rot: You are wrapping a wet towel around the tree's "skin." In Jacksonville's oppressive heat and humidity, this creates a perfect, 24/7 breeding ground for fungus, bacteria, and pests. The bark begins to soften, decay, and rot.

2. It Suffocates the Tree: The root flare and the shallow roots beneath it need oxygen. A dense, matted-down volcano of mulch cuts off the air supply, essentially suffocating the tree.

3. It Promotes "Girdling Roots": This is the most insidious one. The tree, desperate for oxygen and nutrients, is tricked into growing new roots up into the mulch pile. But instead of growing out, these roots grow in and around the trunk. Over time, these "girdling roots" get thicker and literally strangle the tree, cutting off its own supply of water and food.

A volcano mulch pile is a death sentence. It may take 3-5 years, but the damage is irreversible.

Part 2: The First Principle – What is Mulch Actually For?

The second problem with "volcano mulching" is that it fundamentally misunderstands the true purpose of mulch. It's not just a brown blanket. It's a vital, functional tool.

The "volcano" shape puts all the mulch in the one place it shouldn't be (the trunk) and fails to put it where it should be (over the roots).

A tree's most important "feeder roots"—the ones that absorb water and nutrients—are not at the base of the trunk. They are spread out wide, often extending to the edge of the tree's canopy (the "drip line").

The true job of mulch is to protect this wide-spread root system:

1. Moisture Retention: This is critical in Jacksonville. Most of our soil is "sugar sand," which holds almost no water. A correct layer of mulch acts like a barrier, slowing evaporation and keeping the root zone moist and cool.

2. Weed Suppression: It blocks sunlight, preventing weeds from sprouting and competing with your tree for water.

3. Temperature Control: It insulates the soil, keeping a tree's shallow roots cooler during our brutal 95°F summer days and protecting them from a sudden "gotcha" frost in the winter.

The volcano shape fails at all three of these jobs.

Part 3: The Solution: We Build "Mulch Donuts," Not Volcanoes

Doing it right the first time is our standard of excellence. This correct method is often called the "mulch donut," and it's based on the first principles of tree biology.

This is the process we follow, every single time:

• 1. We Find the Flare: Before we lay a single piece of mulch, we always identify the tree's root flare. If it's buried by soil or old mulch (a common problem), we will pull that material back. We respect your tree's health and let it breathe.

• 2. We Spread Wide, Not Tall: We apply a healthy 2-3 inch layer of mulch wide, spreading it over the entire root system, ideally to the tree's "drip line." This maximizes moisture retention, weed control, and temperature stability.

• 3. We Create the "Donut": We pull the mulch a full 3-6 inches away from the trunk itself. This creates a "donut" shape with an empty hole in the middle. This hole is the most important part—it leaves the root flare exposed to the air, just as nature intended.

The Takeaway

Don't pay a "mow, blow, and go" crew to slowly kill your trees.

A proper mulch installation isn't just about looks; it's a long-term investment in the health and value of your property. It's about doing it right, every time. That's not a slogan; it's our standard.